The day started well at 0345 when I got up to go to the airport. Usual time etc. However I wasn’t prepared for the enormous queue which greeted me at the Ryanair bag drop. People were snaking around the space and some had been queuing for an hour. I had plenty of time until they announced that the drop for my flight was closing. Guess who got bumped to the front of the queue.  I am so used to breezing through Alicante airport that it never occurred to me that it would be busy with holiday makers. It also makes me want to travel with another airline if I have luggage.

Security was okay. Certainly better than Newquay airport where I usually have to take my shoes off and stand with arms akimbo for a grope. (Sorry, I meant pat down. No I meant grope. I am sure they see me coming and change the settings on the scanner so it makes a noise as I go through) And it’s a thorough groping let me tell you. And for the first time ever I stopped at duty free for a bottle of gin to keep me going for the week. Another queue. Not too bad I thought until the queue stopped moving forward. I gave up on the gin in favour of a quick toilet stop on the way to the plane which was now boarding – and I didn’t manage to get to the lounge for my breakfast.  I think it’s an honour to be the last priority person in the line and be whisked to the front of general boarding. (I could get used to this queue jumping malarkey). The flight was uneventful thankfully and I managed to get some sleep – a doze really.

And so to Eindoven airport.  For the plane spotters out there it is a brilliant airport – although you need to come by plane to see the military aircraft and interesting planes unless you like to capture Ryanair or Whizzair numbers. Just chainlink fencing surrounding the perimeter so you can see everything.  I’m not sure what the departure lounge looks like or even if there is one as all the departing passengers were queuing outside in lines separated by fencing. Really strange, but will look forward to seeing what it’s like when I leave next week.  I can only think that it reminded me of Newquay airport back in the olden days when there was a cattle grid at the end of the runway( REF: for those of you old enough, Jasper Carrot in his heyday) when Brymon Airways used to fly Dash 7s into Heathrow and I could afford to fly in for the weekend. If you do fly to Eindhoven, don’t head for Starbucks for your coffee but turn left to the self service shop (Albert Hijnes I think) and get a great drink and freshly baked pastries for a third of the price. Unless you really want a creamyfrothymochochoccywhatsit. 

Collecting my hire car was simple enough and the drive to Nijmegen quite effortless. Let’s hope it’s the same for the journey back next week. I had forgotten what it was like to drive a small car (Kia Picanto).

The sports hall was empty this year when I arrived so I had the pick of the beds .(well almost) Bed made, it was time to go shopping. Nothing exciting, just gin and goodies to keep us going when the going gets tough later in the week. And a cup to drink my gin from, it doesn’t taste the same from a metal cup.  I found a great cup with a lid.  It looks just like a coffee cup and was perfect to enjoy a stealth G&T (very large G&T)

Early on Sunday morning the peace is shattered when the coach arrives with the walkers and supporters. With the van unloaded and after a quick bowl of cereal it was time to head out for the day. I chose to head to Arnhem to visit the Airborne museum at Haartshorn. This is a brilliant museum to visit and very moving.  I listened to a piper whilst visiting the war cemetery just up the road.  And then I went to look for something to eat. I found a roadside restaurant Den Strooper Pannenkoeken. A pancake house. If only my Dutch was better I would have gone to McDonald’s or something and not a pancake house. Although my savoury choice was okay they didn’t offer anything vegetarian and so mine was fairly tasteless, but there was plenty of it so I couldn’t finish it. Lovely coffee though.

Unless you have visited Nijmegen during the 4daagse (or walk of the world) it can be hard to understand why nearly 50000 walkers plus family and followers and support staff from across the World would descend upon this university city and go through the agony of walking up to 200 km in 4 days across the Dutch countryside. And some people really do suffer, with blisters and sore feet mainly, but let’s not forget the sunburn if it is really hot, chafing (who would have thought you would still be using nappy cream at a ripe old age?), dehydration, lack of sleep because you hurt too much to move or just whole body pain from the exertion. Even the most hardened walkers can suffer.

As a member of the BDWF (British Dutch Walking Fellowship) we stay in a sports hall in dormitory style beds. We have no home comforts, no privacy, no ensuite facilities, no tea and coffee making facilities(I think you get the picture).  Why? because we get to see people we come to regard as friends and extended family for just one week a year. And it makes us appreciate hotel facilities a bit more. We get dressed and undressed in the dark, making as little noise as possible so we don’t disturb our neighbours. Everyone gets up at different times depending on their distance and start time. We have wonderful support staff who stay up and work the night shift whose duty it is to wake everyone up at the allotted time. If you forget to book your wake up call you get to see 0230hrs when the first walkers get up for breakfast (50km walkers). No phones or alarms are allowed in the sports hall to avoid disturbing the others. Snoring and farting don’t count apparently and if it disturbs you then the office staff are happy to supply earplugs to help you sleep.  (Although noisy my snoring is not the loudest apparently)

All meals are provided during the week with a plentiful supply of snacks whilst out on the route to keep you going. This is in addition to the thousands of supporters who line the routes every day handing out sweets, cakes, hugs, beer, coffee, drinks and anything else they think a walker needs. Forget hygiene concerns just grab some sweets as you go. I haven’t heard of any health problems caused by eating the freebies on the route.  The caterers provide a lovely service with plenty of nourishing food to keep the walkers going although there are some strange concoctions sometimes. Hot soup with bread is supplied at one of our rest points each day which provides just the boost needed to cover the rest of that days miles and  makes a nice change from all the sweet snacks. The other 2 rest points along the route will provide squash and snacks and chocolate (always welcome but can become squidgey). All three rest stops are manned with first aiders who will treat any foot problems to get the walkers back out there. And although nobody thinks about how it happens each day the rest point staff have to get up as early as the walkers to get to the rest points before the roads are closed for walkers. Once the last walker is through the rest point is packed up and returned to the sports hall ready to man the first aid room each night to treat those sore blistered feet. Which means that the support staff are the last to bed (lights out at 8:30pm) each night as the vans need to be loaded ready for the next morning. The one big advantage to being last to bed is the luxury of locking the shower room door and having a solitary shower before bed.

I mentioned the local support lining the route each day, what I didn’t mention was the number of students manning the start line every morning ready to cheer on the walkers and wish them ‘success’ . They also try to take walkers flags from their rucksack to get souvenirs. Most of them don’t go to bed from the previous night and just treat it as a week long party. The Dutch really do know how to party. Each village or area has a different theme throughout the week providing photo opportunities , or sampling different local delicacies such as beer in Bier, enjoying the spectacle of pink Wednesday where anything goes. There is music everywhere whether it be sound systems, local bands performing in makeshift stages of just the sound of marchers singing along to their own music being played through Bluetooth speakers or singing marching songs where everyone joins in.to break the monotony of the quiet but long loops.

And then before you know it, it is Friday and the end is in sight, medals within grasp and the biggest street parties of the week. Where even the patients from the local hospital are wheeled outside in their beds with drips attached so they can join in. The BDWF are privileged to be able to set up their final rest point No4 in Charlemagne field (usually only reserved for military units to gather) on the final day and prepare for the final march into the city, a short distance of 5km but feels like 100 when you have walked so far. This is the one opportunity some of the support staff get to walk in with the teams and enjoy the sights and sounds of the Vierdaagse, listen to some of the military bands and wave at the crowds lining the route and collect gladioli along the Via Gladiola (renamed on the Friday of 4daagse from St. Annastraat)  You never know who you will see on the VIP stands as you walk past. The King of the Netherlands will often come along to enjoy the day and many high ranking military personnel will line the route to take the salute as their troops march past.

During this long week many say, I can’t do this, I want to drop out, never again etc. etc. But come Friday they are already thinking ahead to the following year when they get to do it all again. Many won’t do it again and although there have been 103 Vierdaagse only 635,300 (2018 figure) medals have been issued to individuals. There are many who do it every year and collect their number pins but all who collect their medal can take pride in the knowledge that they are special people who have completed one of the most unique and amazing events on earth, where everyone is wished ‘success’ .

Will I be back next year? You bet. Will I be walking? Most probably. I want my second medal.

For full information regarding the Walk of the World visit https://www.4daagse.nl

To find out more about joining the BDWF and enjoying the support and camaraderie of a family of like-minded people for a week like no other visit http://bdwf.org.uk or email bdwfinfo@gmail.com for further details . Or follow them on Facebook,  just look for British Dutch Walking Fellowship

So what was departure like at Eindhoven?  A giant bus or train terminal.  Bag drop was great as it was self service – much quicker than Alicante.  Security no problem.  Departure lounge ? hard seating and no lounge – so once again I was denied my breakfast.  I didn’t even mind queueing outside in the fencing pens.  My big objection was the lack of water fountains – when I asked the young girl to fill my bottle (having paid €3 for a coffee) I was told to use the water in the ladies loos which I didn’t fancy.  In these days of single use plastic awareness the failing of many airports is the lack of water fountains to fill your  own bottle. Instead you have to offload your 60p bottle on one side of security and buy one in the departure side for anything up to £3.  Its about time this was sorted out.  Come on world – lets start a campaign!!!!!!!

Whats next?  Short term not sure – long term some really exciting trips