Cayman – Iguanas and Lizards

I can’t believe the amount of stuff I am carting around the Caribbean on this little jaunt.  We are into week 3 and our third destination and I have just really realised that I have yet to unpack my suitcase and wear most of this clobber.  Time to think about serious downsizing for the next trip.  It would be so easy to offload the clothes I haven’t worn and make things lighter but I know I will need them when I get back.  I have already started to check out Amazon for a new case which is smaller than the one I have but still has four wheels which I love and is necessary at my time of life.  It will also have to be reinforced against baggage handlers.  Last year it came home which a huge dent in one corner (Cuba) and so far this year I have had to retrieve my brightly coloured luggage strap twice, which helps me identify my bag on the carousel, it has also come off elsewhere and been tied to the handle of my case and it has suffered a crack in one of the wheels which I am hoping will last until the end of this trip.

So we have arrived in Grand Cayman which although only an hour away by plane from Jamaica – Cayman Airways has to have one of the prettiest decals on its planes, it is a million miles away in terms of culture and lifestyle.  One of the first things to hit us was the lack of noise – music, there are signs which say no loud music, no honking car horns and no shouting people – they are softly spoken and not in a rush.   Frustrating at the car hire place where all four ladies were too busy playing games on their phones to serve us and the least friendly so far.  Apparently this particular place has a bad reputation – I feel a trip advisor review coming on so we can warn everyone.  Our very small car has seen better days – but was the cost of a luxury car in Florida as it is pretty battered and has dents all over it, apparently the Americans have a problem with driving on the left and often crash them. The money  is simple to understand as there is a standard conversion with the US dollar so you don’t feel as though you are being ripped off and the prices in the shops aren’t too bad considering this is an island where everything is imported.

Day one we set off to explore the island in our battered little car (we replaced it later on) with a ride down to Kaibo which is the end of the road and you then have to turn around and go back.  We decided to return via the Queens Highway (opened by HM in 1986) and got excited when we saw the signs warning of iguanas on the road.  So Iguana spotting we went.  I love lizards and think Iguanas are pretty special too.  We later found out that there is a cull of grey and green Iguanas going on  at the moment as they have a detrimental impact on the blue iguana ( a bit like grey and red squirrels)  and each one is worth $5 if you take it to the collecting place. But we didn’t know that till later.  We were thrilled to spot them roadside and tried to take a picture or two but they ran like crazy when we stopped the car.  We took a few side turns onto beaches on our journey down the road.  On one of them we spotted iguanas again.  We stopped the car and got out to take some pictures.  All was going well until there was a very loud splash as something big threw itself into the water from the undergrowth – not sure what it was or whether there is anything large and dangerous here (such as crocodiles) so we exited pretty sharp back to the safety of the car.  We wont be getting the intrepid explorer badge.

Love it or hate it social media really can make good things happen.  I posted a silly picture of a chicken (which are absolutely everywhere on this island) and tagged a friend, this prompted a response from another friend who said ‘I have a friend who is the head botanist at Queen Elizabeth Botanical Gardens you could look him up’.      It was on our to do list so with the wonders of social media we found ourselves having a personal guided tour of the gardens with the lovely Nick Johnson who was the lead at Kew gardens for tropical plants.  It makes all the difference to have things explained by an expert.  A behind the scenes tour and we came across ‘Zena’ one of the parks oldest blue iguanas who has a whole shipping container to call home.  As she and her home are protected she can’t be evicted and will continue to live in luxury for the foreseeable future.  Blue iguanas are being overtaken by green iguanas and slowly becoming wiped out – a bit like red and grey squirrels.  There is a cull of green iguanas taking place at present in the hope that the blue population can be increased.

On the other hand we looked at trip advisor as we were heading down to starfish point.  So many people complained that they didn’t see any starfish and it was a waste of time.  We chose to ignore the comments and went anyway.  Just as well really.  Snorkel masks in hand we went past the boats carrying all the day trippers and found a quiet spot.  Starfish galore – and so many small tropical fish in amongst the corals – it was like swimming in an aquarium.  We even witnessed a feeding frenzy but not sure what the predator fish could have been.  I think our trip advisor moaners may have been expecting something like performing fish and starfish like you find in a theme park rather than the natural environment.  And before anyone mentions it, I know I don’t like fish (to eat) but I really like to see them in their natural habitat, not performing in a theme park.

National Heroes day found us up the north end of the island (it is really simple here) North, south east and west and being nosey wondered why so many people were crossing the road.  Turtle farm!!!!! They breed and release green turtles and the cost of admission for this day only was but $5.50 each, a saving of $45 dollars each.  It was amazing to go snorkelling and interact with the turtles and other fish in the pool.   We had previously spotted some turtles in the ocean further down the coast but wasn’t able to get any photos.  The breeding programmes ensure that the turtles are no longer fished for food and so are fairly protected in the ocean.

No trip to the Caribbean would be complete without a visit to a rum distillery.   So off we trotted to sample a selection of about 10 rums and other spirits.  Allegedly this rum is matured at 7 fathoms which is the optimum depth for gently rolling the barrels.  Not sure if it is true however.  But the tour was good fun and the tastings not too bad for a non rum drinker.

 

This has been a fairly lazy week with swimming and chilling and iguana chasing.  Cayman is a lovely island with a relaxed way of life.  It may be a little more expensive to purchase groceries but we have managed to buy Heinz baked beans at a cost of just £2 a tin (so worth it) but you only spend as much as you want to spend.  Beach days are free and the wildlife is fantastic.  You just need to remember that the wildlife don’t perform for an audience and if the weather isn’t to their liking then they won’t come out to play.

We have been to Hell and back (real place) and seen natural blowholes in the fossilised coral.  Been bitten by mosquitos again – no change there but these bites were really painful.  And I wasn’t looking for sympathy as a friend suggested when I mentioned this on Facebook.

I have to mention again that Cayman Airways has to have one of the best coloured logos in the world on its tail – so bright.  And we get to ride it again tomorrow when we take to the skies and head off to Cuba.

 

Jamaica – Mosquitos and ganga

What should have been a quick flit to Jamaica became almost a long haul, with an early start (again), 2 flights and 2 hire cars and a mad drive from Kingston to Ocho Rios.

Hire car number 1 was returned to Orlando airport as planned where I was handed a ticket with my final charges of $33, not too bad until I queried the fact that it ought to have been around $21.  A quick detour to the counter and the bill was changed to the correct amount.  No query or argument from the counter staff – how often does that happen I wonder!  Then it was upstairs to check in.  Have you ever repacked your case in the middle of the check in area at the airport because your bags are overweight?  Interesting.  But repack it I did.  I’m not sure where the additional 4Kgs came from as I didn’t do any shopping.

Two short flights on American Airlines 40 minutes and 75 minutes respectively with 15 minutes connection time took all morning. We didn’t land in Jamaica until 1330 and then had to get the car hired.  They loved our old fashioned paper licences.  They hadn’t seen one like that from the UK before but it is still valid and works for me.  A small Suzuki Baleno is this weeks car.  Happy to say its a model I was familiar with as leaving Kingston was certainly eventful.  They don’t insure the tyres, now I know why.  Pot holes about every 20 metres.  But that was the least exciting part  of the drive.    Driving through the streets of Kingston you need to be prepared to dodge people wandering across the road as they please, avoid the goats and their minders, avoid making eye contact with the street hawkers when you are stopped at a junction, avoid the craters in the road and preserve your tyres, and listen to the music blaring out everywhere as well as the constant honking of car horns.  I even managed some off road driving when we ran out of tarmac in the construction site.  A new road build cuts across the main road out of Kingston.  No diversions,  no road signs and no traffic cones.  Time to stop and be grateful for all of the above on the highways of good old Blighty.  But once we reached the toll road it was like driving on the A30 across Bodmin in winter.  Hardly any traffic, lovely new road, lush vegetation everywhere and rain.

 

And so to Ocho Rios – or Ochi as the locals call it – yeah mon!   Well what can I say?  It is certainly a tourist destination with its hotels and beaches.  But it is very much a locals town.  We were soon warned by a policeman in town to stay together and keep to the well lit areas – it was dark and we were trying to get some money from the cashpoint (not very wise) so we could eat and buy essentials. Actually you need to keep to the well lit areas to avoid falling over the holes in the pavement – it will look lovely when it is finished.  But at the moment there are enormous holes where the trees should be – I think some of them may have come down in storms, holes in pavements for no reason, almost like pot holes caused by our cold weather and also some decorative pavements being laid (by hand and by torchlight) – yes really!!

We found a supermarket and bought the drinks mixers and had a Jamaican dinner in a local restaurant. Starter for me was a vegetarian spring roll made with Ackee and spinach.  Ackee is a locally grown fruit/vegetable and has to be cooked in a special way to bring out any flavour. The big black seed has to be discarded as does the fleshy skin and pith leaving just a small amount of flesh inside.   It should only be eaten when the skin has split and opened up apparently or it will poison you.  I love local knowledge.  If I had known this before I ordered it may have put me off but it was a lovely spring roll.  My sister had goat curry which she said was disappointing and not hot enough. However the local gin was ok and inexpensive although the local brandy didn’t quite measure up to standards.

Our hotel adjoins a beach and we have a card to leave the grounds and enter it.  Security/gate keepers let you in and out of the grounds at each point.  We soon found that locals have to pay to go onto some beaches whilst the tourist doesn’t – which doesn’t seem right,  but the people who work on the beach have permits to be there.  Not too much hustling but we got chatting to the ‘Captain’ Sylvester who offered to show us some of the locality with a driver. So next day we set off early in the morning for a full day of sightseeing.

For some reason local guides always think we want to see the big fancy, expensive houses and hotels and seem reluctant to show us the real Jamaica but we eventually got through that we really weren’t that interested.  I think it was when we said we really, really didn’t want to get out of the car to take a photo that it finally sank in.

Our trip out took us through local towns and villages where it was market day with all the locals coming down from the mountains to sell their fruits and vegetables and eventually up to the blue mountain and into the rain forest – beautiful.  We passed plantations of pineapple, banana, mango as well as coffee (apparently Blue Mountain coffee is the best in the world) and nutmeg, cinnamon etc.  We were discouraged from taking photos of people in some of the towns as tourists and outsiders weren’t always welcome which was a shame as I found the market stalls fascinating.  We did stop at a couple of roadside stalls where we tried jackfruit, cut fresh on the roadside with a machete.  Strange fruit which has a sticky substance inside which sets like glue, not overly sweet but interesting.  I also go to chew on some fresh sugar cane and suck out the juice.  Really refreshing and not as sweet as I was expecting but I think that is because we are used to refined white sugar.  The bananas grown here seem to be fairly small but very tasty especially when picked and eaten straight from the trees.

Our day out included a ride on a bamboo raft in the blue lagoon.  I think it was so the driver could have a sleep for half an hour and Sylvester could catch up with old friends and get some lunch.  Food is cooked everywhere here on the streets – jerk chicken and pork and all cooks proclaim that theirs is the best.  I have yet to find some which isn’t dry and as tough as old boots.  But it is tasty.

Montego  Bay was going to be avoided  as we thought it was just a tourist trap where everyone goes to sit by the hotel pool for a week.  But we took ourselves off there for the day.  The drive down is stunning in places as you follow the coast road.  Once in Montego Bay we found a parking place and was quickly given some inside knowledge to pay for the space or be clamped.  So we followed the chap into the market place (expecting a scam) and was taken into the parking office where we paid our money (about 50p) for 2 hours parking.  For this knowledge we had to visit his sisters stall and also her other friends, no pressure to buy but they do like to show you everything.  They also earn lots from the passengers from the cruise ships.  We escaped into the bustling main street and a few minutes walk found us at the emancipation monument.  We queried a couple of items with a chap in the grounds who took us through to the cultural centre – just what we were looking for.  The museum is a fascinating building telling the story of Jamaica, slavery and Rastafari, which is also steeped in its own history as the building was used as courtroom and slave market in times gone by.

We decided that we would have a beach and personal admin day, to save some money and catch up on all those little jobs that need doing such as washing your smalls and shaving your legs.  The sky is a bright blue and the sea a very inviting aquamarine and the sun is shining brilliantly – perfect. There are about 6 sun loungers provided free on our stretch of beach, the rest you have pay for.  We found a bench under a tree and settled down to read once we had had our dip in the ocean.  We were quickly joined by a young man of 49 years who started chatting away. Great for the first ten minutes then we just wanted to be left alone to chill and read.  But he didn’t go away.  As he smoked more he became more garrulous and it was flattering at first to be complimented on my lovely knees and face (I offered him my glasses) and the first proposition was amusing but it soon became irritating and very indecent.  However, I have received 2 marriage proposals, an offer of a gigolo and an indecent proposal this week so thanks Jamaica you have done wonders for my self confidence.  The mosquitos have started to bite and my legs are now sporting some lovely looking red lumps which itch like mad and look wonderful as an accessory to my red heat rash bumps, so maybe the ganga does make everything look better!!!!

Today we are off to Mystic Mountain and Dunns River Falls.  Sometimes you just have to do the tourist thing.

What an absolutely brilliant day! First stop was Mystic Mountain.  We thought it would be an all day visit but no it lasted about 3 or 4 hours in total.  We paid for the bobsled ride (images of Cool Runnings in my head) and general visit.  Neither of us fancied the zip line as it isn’t always the most comfortable of experiences.  We were lucky to be able to see humming birds coming to the feeding stations for a drink of sugary syrup.  Gorgeous, but they are so fast and almost impossible to get a picture of – if you look hard enough you will be able to see them.  We took the nature trail walk with a guide who was knowledgeable about the flora.  The trail ended at the half way point on the chairlift (same as those in a ski resort) where you have to go down to come back up to the top. It only takes 20 minutes!   Thats where we spent most of our time.  But we did see  a mongoose on the path down.  The bobsled ride down through the jungle was such good fun and well worth doing.

Then it was on to Dunns River Falls where we walked up a waterfall.  Not sure what to expect we were put in a group of about 15 people, mostly strangers at the start and all very friendly one hour later.  The guide was brilliant and made sure we all got a good soaking very early  on.  Fortunately we had invested $5 each last week in Florida in Walmart on some water shoes.  Ours were luminous orange whilst everyone else was sporting the Jamaican park shoe in Jamaican flag colours.  If you are ever in Jamaica the walk up the waterfall is a must do.  The guide and group go at a slow pace.  They are happy to take your photo with your own camera whenever the opportunity presents itself.  There is also the obligatory cameraman/videographer with the group who will sell you a DVD at the end.  Only downside for us was running the gauntlet of vendors on the exit from the park – absolute nightmare as they won’t take no for an answer.  But we escaped with our money intact.

Our final day and we found a little known and fairly new nature park with its own waterfall  walk.  Really lovely and inexpensive with an on site museum at St Anns  call Konoko Falls Park.  This was after our drive up Fern Gully which we had been warned off as it was ‘dark with narrow winding lanes’.  Well, all I can say is that they have never driven in Port Isaac or Polperro in Cornwall.  Yes it was winding – approx. 63 turns in 3 miles and not overly bright as the ferns and trees meet to make it quite dim, but it was lovely.  The roadside vendors sell ‘rude’ carvings of men ( I don’t think they would be allowed through customs) and also dress a ‘hide’ with ferns and flowers = pictures for tips which means you don’t have to buy a souvenir.

This makes me sound tight – but I really dislike being hounded and pestered to buy something.  I’m not the best with souvenirs as I hate dust collectors and have nowhere to put things anymore.  But I do like to window shop.  Trouble is when you have seen one Jamaica t-shirt and wood carving you have seen them all and everyone wants you to buy theirs.

One of the sad but common sights you see in Jamaica is the amount of rubbish polluting the rivers, beaches and road sides.  Fishermen were catching fish with litter strewn across the beach behind them.  There are some initiatives in places to reduce the amount of rubbish build up in towns and waterways as the Jamaicans beome more environmentally aware.  Single use plastic is being replaced with degradable containers in tourist attractions and plastic bags in supermarkets are being replaced with bags for life.  But it is likely to be a slow process.

All in all Jamaica is somewhere everyone should visit at least once in their lives.  It is a love or hate destination and I loved it, despite the mosquito bites.

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Florida – minus Mickey and Friends

I cant believe its been a week since we left a very warm and sunny Spain for the first leg of our Caribbean adventure starting in Florida. The animals are staying at home being looked after by a house sitter and will hopefully all get on well eventually. Mine isn’t the most sociable animal and the attempts to socialise her wasn’t as successful as I had hoped. The last I heard was that she had taken up residence in the garage – but was eating as normal. Hoping she will be ok.

I have never been to Florida without theme park tickets and the plan to spend a fortnight riding some of the best rides I know and seeing lots of cuddly characters, but this time that is exactly what happened. No tickets and no plan to visit any theme park.


The flight over was uneventful.  I am happy to say that I managed to watch a couple of films this time. Last time my screen wouldn’t work so it was a long flight. The cabin wasn’t too full so we managed a row each which meant I had a window seat. It was cloudy so I didn’t get to see much – so wasted opportunity. The thoughts of the long wait at immigration and customs were pushed to the back of your mind as it is always a nightmare in Orlando airport. I think last year we queued for 3 hours (be prepared for Brexit), so this time I made sure I had water, reading material and comfortable shoes. I have sailed through here once before when they had installed electronic passport readers. This year they have all been removed and the system changed once more. However, surprised that the queue, although long, moved along at a steady pace and we were through immigration within one hour. In fact we made it from plane to hire car in less than 2 hours – AMAZING. We even got to Walmart in good time to do a shop.

I had signed up to do the Disney marathon as someone else was going to be joining me to do it together. So day one was spent at the marathon Expo at ESPN Wide World of Sports. A place where athletes go to spend lots of money on the newest and craziest sports gadgets available. Always good fun (as it is free) and lots of goodies to be picked up or sampled. Plenty of photo opportunities and my chance to get a Disney fix as this was going to be it. Then it was back to the house for a chill and visit to the pool.


We picked up coloured water bottles at the Expo which were great for gin and tonic and brandy and coke at the pool as you don’t spill any. We got to the pool and had to gate-crash a man party which was taking place in the hot tub. 12 of them in a 7 person tub, with rules that say maximum of 7 people, no more than 15 minutes, no alcohol. We managed to squeeze in between them and spent a very enjoyable hour chatting with them. It was an annual golf holiday for them without wives. Lots of beer, (they took a large cool box with them), lots of chat and lots of fun. They didn’t worry about the security cameras so it must have been ok.

So what do you do in Florida without theme parks? Well you visit the RV and camping sales lot to see inside the vans of course. Amazing!!!!!!!. They are so big they even have a small bath in the bathroom. Full American fridge and cookers, but they only do about 8 – 10 MPG so not a lot better than mine. But they were really comfortable.

We took the time to visit the Warbird museum in Kissimmee, one of those little attractions which go unnoticed amongst the big boys, a great place if you are interested in flying, planes and history. We were lucky enough to be able to watch an engine being fitted to a plane which was in the hangar. Fascinating to watch the precision of the loader as they were fitting. Moving the piece an inch or two at a time whilst playing with the owners dog.


We also went on an airboat ride. 2 years ago I had tickets for this ride but couldn’t find the park and assumed it didn’t actually exist. This time we went armed with instructions. It took about 2 hours to find it as the sign was so small (strangely for America) and wasn’t lit up. But we found it. We took advantage of the ear defenders provided after about 30 seconds as it was so noisy but it was good fun. Our driver found us some alligators to look at – mother and young but didn’t get close enough for a good photo. Then it was back to the clubhouse for a quick coffee. We were tempted to try the gater poboy. (Found out later that a Poboy is a type of sandwich and yes it was made with real alligator) but it wasn’t gluten free so didn’t bother.


With 2 early wake ups of 0330 to get to the marathon start it was a chilled couple of days. We ventured down to the used car auction on the Highway 192 as it was enormous and looked as though there were some great classic cars. Apparently one car was sold for $1 million. We paid the $10 car park fee and meandered round to the entrance. We absolutely refused to pay $30 to get in as we didn’t plan to purchase. We only went to be nosey. The same day we went to Kissimmee Oldtown. Lovely, and what you think America should look like. Shops, cafes, and friendly locals. Found a lovely tea room with tablecloths, chandeliers and cakes. They make their own Devonshire cream. Looks like clotted cream and served with scones but they don’t serve jam with it. They couldn’t understand why you would want to put cream AND jam on a scone.

So marathon days. The WDW marathon takes place over 4 days with a selection of events from 5k to full marathon, plus kids events. An absolutely brilliant event for its organisation, people management, medals, and goody bags. Each coral has a firework send off but you could be starting up to an hour after the elite runners if you are at the back. There are the ‘balloon ladies’ who maintain a 16 minute mile throughout and if they pass you, you are out and get a ride back to the start. I met them twice. The thing with Disney is that you get your medal even if you don’t finish. It doesn’t seem right to me (as I feel you need to complete to earn the medal) but you don’t get your challenge medal (only right). But the bling will look good amongst the others I have earned. If I do it again I will be fit enough to complete and earn the medal. I haven’t ruled out 26 at 62 – got a couple of years or more to sort myself out.

And then we did a Disney day!!!!!! Animal Kingdom was the park of choice as my sister had never been and it is usually a lovely chilled day out. Online tickets purchased and some fast passes booked and we were off. $25 to park a car – scandalous! When you think how many people visit each day and how much they charge for park entry. With a poor exchange rate this year it equates to about £20 a day. We arrived early hoping to join the queue for the Avatar ride but they won’t let you in the park early unless your are staying at a Disney hotel. When we got to the ride the wait time said 3 hours but we opted to join the queue. Happy to say that the queue time was only 1.5 hours and it is a fantastic ride. So good my sister wanted to queue again straight away but I wouldn’t let her (We did it twice more later in the day) and we did the Na’vi river – again a long wait but so worth it. I did a couple of things I had never done before and missed a lot more. A baby giraffe was born unexpectedly first thing in the morning which closed down the safari jeep ride for a time. And I saw the Rivers of light show last thing – which was nice but would rather have been riding the Everest coaster.


So that was Florida in a nutshell. The next time I go will be for my next big birthday when I plan to ride a rollercoaster or 6 and have a character dinner with family and friends – I just need to decide which park and which restaurant so am open to suggestions.

 

 

The Christmas Bit

Its only taken a couple of days to unload the van and try to find a home for everything.  I am ashamed to say that I have started a charity bag with my belongings.  Anything that needs hanging will probably have to go.  The cat is coming to terms with living near a dog – in 7 years she had never seen one until this summer.  She growls louder than the dog who totally ignores her and treats the place as her own.  I like to leave the door open and both the dog and the other cat wander in and out.  Mine has learned to eat her food or go without as Kitty loves to come in every morning and have a second breakfast.  If I am quick enough, I pick it up and put it on top of the microwave where neither of them can get to it.   With Christmas just around the corner any thoughts of getting in the van and even sleeping in it have been put on hold for the moment.  I am sad to say I might not get to do this until March as there is so much else going on before then.

The first few weeks in Spain have been spent doing domestic things.  With oranges being given to us from all directions we have made marmalade three times.  Seems so wrong to use fantastic eating oranges for marmalade when I am aware how much they cost back in the UK.  But there are too many to eat, and they have no keeping qualities as they are picked fresh and not waxed or preserved in any way.  Amazing flavours.  We have also been given loads of lemons – far too many for me to use in my gin unless I take up drinking in a big way.  I have also made Christmas cakes in a bid to sell them at a local Christmas Fair.  It is almost impossible to buy mixed dried fruit and peel.  So, have had to adapt my recipes to what I can get.  For the first time in my life I had to make my own almond paste as you can’t get marzipan out here.  This is the land of almond trees as well as citrus fruits and olives. I have been converted.  The taste is fantastic and the texture divine.  I will probably never buy marzipan ever again.

Christmas

It’s the week before Christmas and we are off to Ireland to spend the holiday with the parents.  I am so looking forward to looking at the mountain from our holiday home – It is called Mountain View.  The car is stacked to the roof with Christmas goodies from Spain, the tree and decorations and the dog.  The drive up to Santander was uneventful but lovely although long.  We arrived at our pre-booked accommodation at 1730hours to find the doors locked and the place in darkness.  It would seem that the booking had been cancelled and Booking.com had sent an e-mail to inform us.  Sadly, without Wi-Fi you can’t read an e-mail.  And it helps if you aren’t driving.  So, after a frantic call to customer services and a bus stop where I could pick up Wi-Fi, we were found a hotel in Santander that would accept a dog for the night with Booking.com paying the difference in the booking costs.  Shame we didn’t get there until 2030hours.  But it was a lovely apartment.  Opposite a beach, a park and some lovely statues and fountains.  And for once it was furnished with real furniture which hadn’t come flat packed from the Scandinavian shop.  Santander has a lot more going for it than just the ferry port.

Well what a bumpy ride across the sea on board the Connemara.  The customs officer who had questioned me said that the crossing was going to be a smooth one.  He lied!.  Captains announcement was that they were expecting gale force winds and a rough crossing in the Bay of Biscay.  How right he was.  As soon as we reached open water the boat started to bounce around.  Decision was made by me not to drink gin or brandy that night.  Good decision although my morning coffee didn’t taste so good on the way up. But it didn’t stop the truck drivers who hit the bar before we left port and were still there the next morning it seemed.  It was a disturbed night and a very rough crossing.  We didn’t find out till lunchtime the next day that they had diverted in the night to avoid the worst of the storm and we were now delayed by about 4.5 hours and wouldn’t dock until nearly midnight.  But they did give us all a free dinner to make up for it.

Our holiday home in Kilmacthomas was lovely.  Absolutely enormous and was big enough to sleep 14 people.  Called Mountain View Lodge, it was set in the middle of green fields with cows for neighbours and we even had our own little donkey for Christmas.  Sadly the mountain was obscured by mist and low cloud just about every day but I did spot the summit briefly one day.  It looked stunning.  The parents enjoyed Christmas .  My dad had an open fire to play with so he was happy (he always liked playing with fire) mother was ensconced in a comfy chair for the duration so was also happy. We just kept plying her with the Spanish equivalent of Baileys.  And both dogs loved having so much space to play in.  All in all a good time was had by all.  Hopefully Brexit wont have a huge impact on the amount of alcohol which can be transported back and forth in a car – else it could be  a dry Christmas next year.

We left Ireland for Spain to get home in time for New Year. Happy to say the return journey on the Connemara was a lot smoother than the outbound trip with 2 nights on board.  I spent most of the day in the lounge situated at the front of the boat chatting to a couple from Ireland who were returning to Portugal.  And I was overjoyed to see pods of dolphins and porpoises throughout the day.  Sadly my attempts to photograph them were abysmal. I take my hat off to wildlife film makers and photographers who are able to capture animals in their natural habitat.  My phone really wasn’t man enough for the job and my reflexes weren’t quick enough.  Trouble is – I couldn’t get them to stand still long enough to get a decent picture.  Maybe next time. My previous encounter with a dolphin was in an artificial setting which I really didn’t like.  And anyone who knows me well will tell you how much I dislike fish.  (Yes I know they are mammals) But they were truly a brilliant site on that dull grey day

I mentioned earlier that we had been given lots of oranges which we used to make marmalade, but living in a rural community in Spain there is an informal system of give and take.  We have a goatherd who comes along the track outside our house a couple of times a week for grazing.  He came into the grounds one day when we left the gate unlocked and ‘trimmed’ our olive tree.  He uses this for goat food as they love the oils in the bark and leaves.  When he brought his trailer along to collect the branches he invited us along to get some lemons.  So we followed him with carrier bag in hand and he showed us to the nearest tree and invited us to pick our own.  And then told us to come back whenever we wished to pick some more. Was great in my gin.

The beginning of the adventure

The Story so far

As I finally get around to writing my masterpiece I notice that it is 7 whole weeks since I left my safe and secure job and life in search of some adventure.  I promised everyone that I would get this started immediately but all the best laid plans etc. etc.

My original plan was to leave work on Friday and give myself a week to complete the six tier wedding cake I had to do, load my van and then leave Cornwall on the following Friday to deliver the cake and attend the birthday party/wedding on the Saturday and then travel to Dover to catch the ferry on Sunday. It didn’t quite work out like that sadly.

On the Wednesday of week one – (packing etc) I realised I didn’t know where my passport was.  Panic set in as I set about unpacking bags, boxes and everywhere I could possibly have put said passport for safe keeping – not a dicky bird.  Plan 2, check out getting a replacement passport; did you know you can’t get one inside a week? even travelling to the nearest passport office and camping out. Wedding cake forgotten and lecture from sister to look again and then again for my passport as it had to be there- SOMEWHERE.  Late on Wednesday afternoon I found it -PHEW! Lurking in a box next to the sofa where it must have dropped off when the cat was cleaning the table.  Panic over!  Back to finishing this cake. 

The garage said my van would be ready to collect on Thursday – only 3 days late; but I would still have time to load it and catch that ferry.  Thursday afternoon – no van.  I was still waiting for the MOT to be done – but it would be done by Friday.  Plan 3, change the ferry booking to the following week sometime.  Then all I had to do was collect the van on Friday lunchtime before I left for Portsmouth and drive my car to Portsmouth and back, load on Sunday afternoon and leave on Monday.  No.  MOT can’t be done until Saturday morning.  But the garage could deliver it back to my sisters house and drop the keys off.  Call from nephew late Saturday afternoon – no van delivered.  Call to garage owner.  The van has an MOT! But couldn’t be delivered.  So van has been left at the garage to collect on Sunday.

In the midst of all this stress I enjoyed an evening in the local Indian restaurant on Thursday night as it was planned to be the last night in Cornwall farewell dinner with family and friends.  It was so nice to sit there and just catch up.  Missing my work colleagues already.  I finished the cake and travelled to Portsmouth in the car and enjoyed my nieces birthday party and surprise wedding announcement to all the guests and returned home on Sunday afternoon.  By the time I travelled to Truro and back on Sunday to collect the van it was too late and to dark to start the loading process.

Monday, finally started loading the van. I can’t believe how much stuff I still have after my ‘clearouts’ (obviously not enough clearing out).  Plan is to leave by 12pm on Tuesday lunchtime.  The van hasn’t been road tested and I have never slept in it.  I don’t know how anything works (or doesn’t) and it is now too late.  Thankfully the RAC were able to give me some rescue and recovery for Europe.  No other company would touch  my van as it is over 16 years old – how ridiculous, what could go wrong?  It has a sparkly new MOT and had thousands spent on it.  And all those weeks spent in the garage having the different repairs done has filled me with an enormous amount of confidence – NOT!!

TUESDAY.  Not sure what plan number I am on but made it to Tuesday lunchtime and finally time to depart for Dover, collecting my sister from Exeter airport on the way.  She was flying in from Spain at wanting to be collected at 3.30pm.  It only takes 1.5hours to drive to Exeter airport so I had plenty of time even allowing for a comfort break on the A30. 

By 2pm I was beginning to realise that plans aren’t going to be workable.  I left at 12.30 and had only made it as far as the rest stop at Sourton.  I got out to go to the ladies and the cat escaped from the open door.  I hadn’t noticed that she had escaped from her harness and then made a bid for freedom.  So I ended up chasing her around the car park and crawling under the lorries parked up trying to capture the cat.  Mission accomplished and it only took 10 minutes. Now time for the loo.  Finally back on the road and I still had an hour to get to the airport.  Quick stop for fuel as I wasn’t sure how much I had (the fuel gauge isn’t very accurate) and I now had 15 minutes to get to the airport.  Finally made it at 4pm – only half an hour late.  Starting to realise that this was going to be a bit of a slow process – but on the positive side, the van hadn’t broken down!

I collected my sister from the airport – she said she new it was me coming up the road as she heard me before she saw me, and she hadn’t ever seen my van.  And the journey is finally starting.  Down to Andover to collect a couple of bits from younger sister who had promised to feed us.  Late getting there as well and then we left expecting to reach Dover by around 11pm.  I hadn’t booked a hotel as I wanted to see how far we could get.  I think we made it by about 0300hrs.  Just because the van is old and slow.  Although I did get flashed by a speed camera on the M25 and then spent the next 3 weeks worrying about it.  I reckon they saw the picture of the van and didn’t believe it was capable of breaking the speed limit.

We found a car park for a few hours of dozing in the van.  Woke up fancying a cooked breakfast.  Found the Premier Inn and the restaurant and it must be the only one which doesn’t open for breakfast.  We then tried for an early departure on the ferry.  Did all the passport stuff and had the van pulled in for  a search – actually they took one quick look inside and really didn’t want to disturb anything so let us go.  Then to check in.  And it was going so well.  Couldn’t get an earlier crossing as I had bought my ticket from a ticket agent and not direct with P&O.  Off to Tesco for a bit of retail therapy (actually to use the loo and kill some time).  Back to the ferry port for the ferry.  We were allowed on the one leaving one hour earlier so a bit of a victory.  I still got to use our lounge passes.  I assumed they would work like they do at the airport and we would get a breakfast or hot snack included.  They offered a glass of sparkling wine and all the coffee or tea you could drink.  Breakfast was from the menu.  What a fuss when I said I didn’t want the smoked salmon on my scrambled egg – could I have a slice of toast instead?  And it wasn’t cheap!  Wished I hadn’t bothered – but at least the seats were comfortable.

And so into France.  What a joyous country!  The scenery is lovely even from the motorway.  All I can really say is that it took 4 long days to hit the borders of Spain.  Staying at only the least expensive self service ‘hotels’ en route as you always have to pay extra for the animal we came upon a level of customer service never really experienced before.  The first one was okay and the further south we travelled the worse it became.  One restaurant wanted to charge full price for a meal we sent back to the kitchen twice.  They wouldn’t let us leave until the bill had been paid so I decided we would have a sit in until something edible could be put before us.  This worked when I bought a packet of crisps from the vending machine, collected an empty plate from the buffet and emptied the crisps on to it and sat at the table to eat.  Still not a great meal from the cuisine capital of Europe but at least we didn’t go to bed hungry.

On day 2 I managed to pull the wiring from my very expensive all whistles and bells radio leaving us in silence.  Thank heavens for bluetooth speakers and ipods and downloads.  I think we managed to listen to everything we had twice over.  As I only had the one socket which was being used for the satnav we became reliant upon my little power bank and a solar charging panel in the front window to keep the sounds going from morning till night when we parked up and plugged everything in to the hotel  electricity points.  Still haven’t had the repair done 7 weeks later, but it is high on my list of priorities. Another low point was taking the wrong exit off the motorway at the start of the evening rush hour near Lyonwhen the lights went out on the dash and apparently at the rear of the vehicle.  Fortunately the front headlights were working but dreaded the thought that the vehicles behind me might rear end me as they couldn’t see me brake.  But because the traffic was crawling along I did manage to admire some of the architecture and get a picture of the gorgeous bridge and a building which reminded me of a Star Wars spaceship.

Finally we reached the borders of Spain.  The land of inexpensive petrol (about 40cents a litre cheaper), sunshine, daily meal deals and friendly hoteliers.  The interesting thing about Spanish hotels is that they are noisy.  Really noisy.  You can hear every word from the room next door and every word of the monumental screaming match/row going on in the corridor at 0230 hours.  Sadly didn’t get the whole argument details but I think I can confidently say that the chap must have done something really awful to get the fishwife treatment.  Thankfully we only had one night in a Spanish hotel before pressing on towards Alicante the next day and my new ‘home’.  It was a long day but the scenery was ever changing.  Sunshine through the windows which meant we could lose the blankets keeping us warm in the van as we travelled along (the heating doesn’t work) and then rain once we hit the mountains. The van struggling to climb on those long upwards slopes and then gaining something in petrol consumption on the equally long downward slopes.  I don’t think I have ever known somebody to be so pleased to get into their own car as my sister when we reached Alicante.  She was gone like a rocket.  I think it was the ought that she adjust her seat to suit her frame and she would be able to go at a speed greater than 40mph in a vehicle that you didn’t have to shout in to be heard. She also was able to listen to music.  It was okay following her but I soon realised that I couldn’t see a thing from my left side and was completely blind at the junctions and hadn’t realised jmust how reliant we had both become on the passenger giving the all clear at junctions.  Simply because my van was loaded and the side windows were full of my stuff. (I can’t believe the difference it makes to have an empty van). 

Having arrived in the dark I didn’t really see my new home until the following morning when I was able to take my coffee outside and just sit in the sunshine and take in the peace and quiet of my new surroundings.  It was lovely.  A small cassita next door to my sisters house. Time to get the cat settled into our new surroundings and start to empty the van.